Dorukha Shawl

Dorukha Shawl (Source: saffronart blog)

Dorukha, as the name suggests, basically means ‘two-sided or double-faced’- hence, the Dorukha are Kashmiri shawls that have two different sides and can be draped either ways.  The Dorukha shawls have been in Kashmir since the 1860s and have been known since then for their unique combination of twill-tapestry weave and embroidery that provide the wearer of two different sides that have different designs and colors.  At times, the Dorukha shawl will have the traditional flower motifs called ‘boteh’ whereas sometimes, it can also be combined with a plain side.  This reversible shawl is perhaps the costliest one amongst the Kashmiri shawls and is also the most widely sold.  The Dorukha is globally acclaimed due to its magical darning and superfine wool quality and designs combined with superior craftsmanship which make it a fine piece of art.

Origin & History

The Dorukha shawl is a variety that can be available in jamavar as well as kanni weave.  The Ain-e-Akbari, a biography written in the court of Emperor Akbar (who ruled Indian between 1556-1605) mentions the Dorukha stating that he had a huge collection of these Kashmiri shawls.  Later on, in the 18th century, the Dorukha had gained so much popularity worldwide that merchants from various countries used to come to Kashmir to trade specifically for these Dorukha shawls.  It has been said that these shawls used to be worth their weight in gold and were even offered in the form of tax, a prized gift or even in the of the king’s ransom.  However, later on cheaper imitation shawls started being produced in France and England and they lessened the demand for the original handmade Dorukha of Kashmir.

Sources of Inspiration

The Dorukha shawls have indeed undergone a lot of changes in terms of modern colors that are bolder with more exquisite color combinations and designs.  There is a lot of difference in the modern Dorukha as you can now see a lot of geometrical patterns as well as a modern twist given to the conventional designs that exhibit the Indian pine, circles, spirals, paisley and floral prints.  Since the Muslim faith does not encourage the imitation of animals and birds, hence, these shawls do not depict the birds of Kashmir like the blue kingfisher and the hoopoe and so on.

Shawl Weaver (Source: Himachal Pradesh IT Dept.)

Faces behind the Fabric

These shawls are made by master craftsmen who dexterously weave two designs in one shawl so seamlessly that it is difficult to distinguish which one would perhaps have been the first side up.  A lot of shawl weavers in Kashmir are solely dependent on these shawls for their living.  There was a time when the west came out with replicas of the Dorukha which led to destitution and joblessness for the Kashmiri weavers as they were not trained for any other work.  However, now these shawls have been accredited with the GI certification that prevents duplicate shawls from ruining the market, and the Kashmiri weavers have gained their well-deserved reputation that they have been maintaining for centuries altogether.

Present Day Scenario

The Dorukha in terms of colors and designs is getting reinvented in order to live up to modern tastes and fashion sensibilities.  From the use of modern bright colors to the usage of exquisite non-conventional designs, there are a lot of changes that have endeared the Dorukha to people all across the world.

Innovations

The Dorukha is now not only limited to the shawl, but is also being used as a bed cover, couch drape, chair cover, piano cover and a table cover.  It exudes great royalty and grace and therefore it is not being used as an accessory for various upholstery because of its rich and grand look.

Shawls from Kashmir (Source: theweaveddreams blog)

Wearing Dorukha Shawl

The Dorukha is the perfect shawl to drape in mild to cold winters.  They are expensive and elegant, hence these shawls cannot be worn casually.

With the upcoming options of scarves, waistcoats, stoles, table covers, cushion and sofa covers amongst others, the Dorukha is getting reinvented to give it a modern flavor. It looks great with a saree too.

Maintenance

When it comes to maintaining pure wool Dorukha shawls, one must look after them with a lot of care by storing them safely from moths and dry cleaning them.  These shawls are costly and are also a priceless heritage asset whose value increases year after year.

 Interesting Facts and Comparisons

• The Doranga-Dorukha are double-sided shawls that are produced in two colors sans and design.
• The Aksi Dorukha has a design on one side, with the other side plain or embroidered in different colored threads.
• A Dorukha has always been a prized possession and was even offered as ransom in exchange for the king.
• A Dorukha shawl made out of Shahtoosh can cost anywhere between $3000 to $7000 each.