Stone work
Embellished Georgette Saree in Black
Stone work on dress material is an age old romantic art which uses decorative stitching in a palette of colors to create rich exclusive designs. A stone can be used alone as a centerpiece or as part of a large and varied pattern. Stone work initially involved a time-consuming process of stitching precious or semi- precious stones by hand. Later came shuttle embroidery, followed by machines that continued the same. Computers are used at present for mass production of embroidered designs.
Origin and History
In the Iron Age, man discovered the use of thread and its ability to join pieces of fur. With time the same thread gave ideas of attaching bones, stones and beads on fabric. Historical records show that embellishments were popular among the ancient Egyptians, Babylonians, Phoenicians and Hebrews. In 1828, Joshua Heilmann from Mulhouse improved the design of the hand embroidery machine. Though he did not sell many, it revolutionized the embroidery industry. His invention was followed by the “shuttle embroidery” and the “chain stitch embroidery” methods which revolutionized the embroidery industry. The beginnings of shuttle embroidery started in 1860’s when Isaak Ggrlobli, from Switzerland, was inspired by the work produced on the sewing machine. Earlier Stone work was a laborious process and considered a symbol of wealth for the value of the stones and the time taken to make it.
Wearing the Attire
Bridal wear is an important segment where the usage of Stone work is popular. Stone work is prominent even in evening wear and accessories. Entertainment events both in India and abroad are seeing an increase in the usage of Stone work on unique designs. Stone Work on Lehenga Cholis, Sarees and Anarkalis in various silhouettes is a popular demand worldwide. Once worn by royalty only, Stone work embellished attire inspired more followers. Exclusive designers are the rage. Outfits in Silk, Brocade and Velvet decked in embroidery are rather expensive and still worn by many. One can pair these embellished attires with traditional Indian jewelry.
Embroidered Net Abaya Style Suit in Peach
Prominent designers and fashionistas have influenced the popularity of Stone work stitched outfits. J.J Vallaya, Ritu Kumar, Rina Dhaka and Manish Malhotra are among the faces who put the age old Stone work on the map with sarees, salwar kameez, kurtis, churidars, formals, semi-formals, and a multitude of fashion accessories. They created a diversification of dressing style- a fusion using western wear like jeans, capris, trousers with Indian elements in them.
Styles & Varieties
A wide range of materials are used to highlight Stone work, right from fabrics like Silk, Chiffon, Brasso, Crepe, Cotton, Denim, Corduroy, Hessian, Jacquard, Lace, Dupion, Satin, Glass tissue, Net, Tissue, Poly-viscose, Georgette and Organza. Themes and motifs comprising floral, animals, geometric and religious patterns have remained as such for centuries. Stone work is practiced on bags, shoes, home decor and more.
Maintenance
Due to the delicate nature of stonework and its cost, dry cleaning is recommended. Ironing is optional and maybe done on a moderate temperature with a cover.
Present Day Scenario
Today computers have made the process of the finished fabric much easier. The artwork is scanned and digitized advising the computer to create different patterns. It is then uploaded to the embroidery machine to add designs, logos and more. An array of materials are used in combination with different stitches like lazy daisy, straight stitch, French knot and stem stitch to sew the precious and semi- precious stones to craft an elegant outfit.
Although computers have a big hand in making embroidery easy for the craftsmen, India still relies on a large amount of hand embroidery in various styles namely Kashmiri, Gujarati, Phulkari, Chikan, Chamba, Kantha, etc. International Designers have been incorporating stone work in their western collection as well to create new fashion.
Stone Work Embroidery Designer Collection
Interesting Facts and Comparisons
- In an amateur manner, ladies in India also try out Stonework embroidery at home on sarees.
- Time taken to complete one saree with Stone work can go up to 20 days depending on the design.
Reference
Categories: Motifs & Embroideries