Badla Embroidery
The magnificence of Indian embroidery is how it is embedded in rich cultural history and art. Embroidery done with metallic thread is known as Kalabattu and forms the zari which is basically known as Zardozi. Badla, which is what makes up Zardozi needlework, is where slabs of metal are melted and pierced through steel sheets. They are then converted into wires and hammered to the necessary fineness. The unadorned wire is referred to as Badla, the thread wounded around is called Kasav, tiny spangles are called Sitara and the small specks or dots which are made out of the wire are called Mukaish.
Background
Goldwork embroidery or the use of metal wires for stitch work originally developed and found its roots in Asia, and has been around for about 2000 years. This kind of embroidery reached the peak of success around the Middle Ages, and a popular kind of work known as “Opus Anglicanum” developed in England, and were used to create church hangings. The Middle East was also famous for such work. Badla, which is basically metal wires, is what forms the intricate and beautiful Zardozi work. Zardozi is a Persian word which basically means “sewing with a gold string”. In India too, this kind of art goes all the way back in history and has been found to be associated with Famous Vedic texts, such as The Ramayana and The Mahabharata. It was also a popular form of needlework during the Sultanate period.
Style & Variety
Indian weddings, or rather the authentic bridal wear, go unfinished without the starry dots adorning the beautiful fabrics. It is the bright dots which give the princess or fairy like look to any outfit. Apart from bridal costumes and designs, badla is also used to weave in glamour into home furnishings like cushion covers, bed spreads, or even curtains. Any simple kurta, sari, or cushion cover becomes alluring with style if it has a touch of Badla embroidery. What makes this kind of stitching so versatile in its use is that it is not limited just to clothes alone, but can be used on accessories as well. In spite of several innovations in the Indian fashion industry, several top of the line designers use this embroidery even in the modern day to day wear, since it can be used for both ethnic and western style, for example in the Lakme India Fashion Week of 2002, the famous Indian contemporary designer Ritu Kumar used Badla work to showcase her eclectic designs in jeans, skirts, and shirts, depicting a sense of high-end fashion.
Sources of Inspiration
Opulence and at the same time elegance is what lies in the intricate and delicate stitches of Badla embroidery. If we trace the actual inspiration behind this technique then it would lead us back to China and Japan where this type of embroidery was used on heavy silk fabric known as “Kinkhwab” or what is now popularly known as Brocade. Apart from Chinese and Japanese Brocade, Zari work was also used on Indian brocade known as ‘Himru’, or ‘Amru’. This kind of specialty is found in Aurangabad and Hyderabad. It is also more wearable and affordable as compared to the heavy silk Brocade.
Faces Behind the Fabric
Zari work or in other words metallic thread embroidery is something that has been passed on from generation to generation. The Mughal period, an era full of opulence and luxury, reaped the richness of this art the most, and it was during this period that Badla embroidery found its roots, which till this date play a strong influence in the world of fashion and style. This type of embroidery does not pertain to any one state or region. Depending on the city, the kind of needlework practiced may vary in style and demand. For example, in Bareilly (Uttar Pradesh) the work is basic and less elaborate. On the other hand, in Delhi, the Zari work done is heavy and rich. The Muslim community in Uttar Pradesh is predominantly involved in practicing this art.
Variety
There is a huge spectrum of colors available in the market, which includes silver metallic, gold metallic, and rayon metallic. There are several distributors who sell these threads on a large scale basis across the country. Surat, in Gujarat, is the biggest metallic thread manufacturer in India.
Innovations
Fashion keeps changing, but at the same time it also revolves and goes round in a cycle. Some old and vintage styles of the 60’s and 70’s have found their way back into the Indian market and are much in demand. Zari work can be seen not only on the runway, but also setting a sizzling trend among movie stars and the ‘whose who’ of the fashion world. Also, it is not limited to ethnic wear alone, and can be found on party dresses, shirts and long skirts as well. This makes it a popular style statement among several age groups.
Global Appeal
With Indian designs becoming a forerunner in the world of stylists and designers, Badla embroidery can be seen in different markets, from clothes to fashionable house accessories. Zari embroidery has become more or less of a fashion statement and anyone who displays this is assumed to have a splendid and high sense of fashion. The design embarks royalty & richness of culture.
Wearing the Attire
Accessorizing: ‘Less is more’, and this over-used phrase in fashion is the key to make your Badla- embedded outfit stand apart. With all the glitter and sparkle effect, one does not need much. A nice and sober pair of earrings or a large cocktail ring, on one hand, is the best way to finish off the look in style.
Bridal wear is what it is mainly used in, but depending on the occasion, one can get less embroidery done on a simple kurta for a more sober and understated look.
Maintenance
If such intricate embroidery goes through harsh wear and tear, it will definitely ruin the outfit. Hand wash is not advisable, and dry cleaning is the best option available if one wants their outfits to last long. Wrapping it in an absolute dry packet is another way of keeping the glow intact.
Interesting facts
- This type of embroidery has been around since the Rig Veda era, and it went onto prosper during the Mughal period
- Initially, real silver and gold was used to make these threads, but now real raw material is not used. Craftsmen have different ways of polishing the thread to make it appear brighter
- This kind of embroidery is also used at times to give the appearance of sequin work
References
Categories: Motifs & Embroideries